START OF THE LAST WEEK IN FEBRUARY

            Early to rise and off to meet Jesus...or Chucho as his friends call him.  He is the son of the Senora who may be my new landlord.  The Studio apartment is in La Noria area of Oaxaca and close to everything.  It is located above a Taqueria that supplies the area with fresh Tortillas, Tacos, and Tostadas.

 Quiet neighborhood with a Fresh Market across the street.  Jesus, who lives with his Mother just down the street, was on time.  He is a  young man in his early twenties maybe, spoke a bit of English, friendly, and likeable.  He opened the private entrance and we walked up and into the studio.  A large room with  ceiling to floor windows on each side opening onto the streets below.  I liked the space but sparse in furniture but a really nice bed.  It could be really warm in April but comes with a floor fan.  

He offered me storage for my belongings until I moved in in November and a possible discount to 5000 Pesos ($400 ) that includes internet, water and gas...so I think I pay the electric and drinking water.  I believe I clean and change the sheets.  There is no patio or outside area to lounge in but I could open one of the windows and have an indoor Patio??
      We parted and I emailed him to let him know I still had another to look at on March 6th and would give him a decision by March 8th.  While walking  to Courtney's a man accosted me for money...he explained he was from Guatamala and was a refugee excaping for his life.  I gave him 10 pesos.   When I arrived at  Courntney's  her place was closed up so she was out or still in bed.

I left her some Coconut cakes and Cinnamon I had bought yesterday then came over to my favorite Coffee house to meet Helen for lunch. 

          We had lunch while planning the last two weeks of her stay.  Carol, her sister, along with her brother in law Ed are arriving soon but only staying for one week.  Most of their week is taking tours and doing things we've done more than once.  Saturday Helen booked a tour for the four of us, if I care to join them. I will dine out a few nights to socialize with Ed and Carol, whom I spent a couple some time with in Antwerp, Belgium and in Mont St Micheal, France.  I invited Courtney to a farewell dinner Saturday so asked if she could join us or change to Thurs or Friday???
      Then Helen wanted me to meet a Restaurteur who has a restaurant and catering business in La Noria...He is also remodeling two , two bedroom units for rent that will be available in another month or two.  We walked over and met him in between cooking orders.  Mag and I hit it off well.  He worked as a cook at Ritz Carlton and mostly Country Clubs and upscale restaurants...NOT what he is doing now.

 He and his wife moved here with there son of maybe 8-9 y.o. and opened in a building his Mother owns.  When he introduced his son, I held out my hand and he wrapped his arms around me and hugged me.  They live in Col Reforma section of Oaxaca to the North.  The upstairs unit has two bedrooms, living area , kitchen and bath with small balcony...faces the south...lots of light in living area...and a stairway to the roof!  3000 peso...Unfurnished...I told him I don't need a lot of furnishings...bed, table and chairs and there is a walkin closet with built in place to hang everything.   
        Then we went to Helen's place and had a meeting with the landlady there...and an interpreter.  More dates and plans.  I get to see that Mar 3rd.

   There was a unit next to Helen's that the man let us tour with up and down stairs but 7000 Pesos and dark..not !

  While walking  to Chedraui Market, I was accosted by a man saying he was a refugee from Guatamala....deja vu?  Not the same man but an area scam targeting Gringos with a soft spot.   I refused, shopped then took the bus home....legs pained less and less....times NO pain felt great...could be because I took one of the 800 mg IBprophen this morning?
      I changed my tactics with my barking dogs...I'm now the dog whisperer.  They are puzzled but it seemed to work.  When they bark I just step out on the patio and look at them.  When they bark again...I step out and whisper...don't do that doggie.  They just sit and stare at me. Then walk inside.  I haven't heard a bark in an hour! They like to wake me around midnight.

       
     

BENITO JUAREZ...Mussolini was named after him.

       

Thursday I visited Casa Juarez, the home of Benito Juarez the president of Mexico in the mid-1800's.  I met Helen, her friend Karen, and Courtney at Biznaga but during the meal, Helen received the news Gil, her friend of over 30 years, had a stroke two days ago and the Plug was pulled on him today.  He just left here last week.  Gil and his wife, who just passed away 6 weeks ago..were dear friends of Helen's .   Courtney and I went to a rooftop bar and ended our day with a beer and Mescal...toast to Gil.
      Saturday Courtney and I went to visit the Railroad Museum.

It was housed in the original Oaxaca Depot and was also an Organic Market on Saturdays.  We walked quite a distance to discover ...it was gutted and under reconstruction.  The train doesn't come to town anymore but lots of people sat waiting for it, including us and about 20 policemen.   I took the bus home.
       Sunday was an adventure.  Courtney had visited Tlacolula and met a lady that invited her to meet her family in a village not far away.  She wanted to return to give them a family portrait she had printed from the day of her visit.  We visited a church,

Battery Operation Offering Candles

then a  huge market in Tlacolula but by the time we were ready to travel to the village I was exhausted so took a Taxi back while she went on. 
        I should have had some water....I realized that after.  Felt OK but tired...dehydration I think...and the pain in my legs.  The taxi driver was born and raised in Mitla, spent three years in La Jolla California before taking a job as dishwasher at the Outback in Seattle where he rose to cook and worked for 9 years.  Spoke fluent English and was joyess man...very religious...blessed himself TWICE when he drove by the church at 60 mph. Twenty Pesos...and I was home.

One Shoe stall of Many..many...many!

Dried-Salted Fish and Shrimp Market

Meat Market

Heritage Seeds

David with Sous Chef Julio's Mom

Fried Pig's Skin...good with Eggs and Salsa

Can't Pronounce or Remember?

BLAH WEEK..

         Monday I don't remember what I did? 
        Tuesday I remember coming to town and without anything going on I decided to explore Colonial Reform and try to find the Cheese shop that the Tres Bistro waiter told me about.  I think I took too many ground Cocoa beans because I suddenly had the urge to find a bathroom...but not in time. I slowly walked to McDonald's bathroom and cleaned up as best I could then hopped the bus home to shower.  Very embarrassing. 

       Wednesday I awoke late and while having my coffee and checking my emails, I noticed a confirmation from a landlord to meet me at NOON.  My computer said it was almost 11 am and I hadn't showered so sent off a note asking to meet around 12:30.  I showered and was leaving when I noticed the real time was now almost 11 am.  My computer was on AZ time.  I emailed her to confirm NOON would be fine. I arrived at the library to pay up my dues for the year, then checked my email to discover the landlord couldn't make it until 4 pm.  Well now I have four and a half hours to  kill.  I had left a voice mail for Helen to meet me at 12:30 for lunch so had part of the time filled.  

     I went by the apartment for rent.  Nice neighborhood and looked good but my bedroom could be on the ground floor on the street side next to a covered window...traffic noise.  I stopped by Kay's to tell her about it and she agreed to meet me at 4 pm with the landlord.  Realizing I was now late for lunch I caught a taxi and $3 later arrived but NO Helen and no messages.  She is still Hosting her friend Karen and I suspect they were off doing something.  I had a lovely Turkey sandwich on homemade Whole Wheat, played some poker and decided to stop by and see if Courtney was in.  She spent all day Tuesday exploring a distant village.
        She was in, we chatted then I realized it was 3:45 so I only had 15 minutes to make my appointment.  No problem until I walked out the door and made a right instead of a left for some reason.  Two or three blocks and I realized I was walking in the wrong direction at a fast pace to make my appointment.  I pulled out the map and got oriented then started out again but by now my legs were cramping and I was in pain.  I had to slow down or STOP until the pain subsided.  I slowed down and made it on time.

 The large window on the street turned out to be the entrance.  Micaela unlocked the security bars and then the windows...French doors...opened into the apartment.  The bedroom was a loft with a staircase. It was attractive and had a small skylight as well as windows that could be opened to allow light...but a barking dog in the private courtyard.  I didn't have access to that.  I thought the place really nice and despite the doors opening from the street, you could not hear any traffic. 
         I left to pay Hector, my news stand English News supplier for the paper he extended me on credit when he couldn't change a 100 pesos for 15 this morning.  
I still want to at least do some shopping before I returned.  I was out of yogurt!
I didn't want a repeat of yesterday's emergency evacuation but it seems those Cacao ground beans stay with you a while...I was suddenly having the need for a bathroom again .   The library was just ahead and as the charged into the back room the bathroom door was locked.  NO.  I sat down right away and tried to relax as I heard the door unlock...I bolted into the room JUst in time.  
        Now I can go home...I paid Hector...hopped one bus to a transfer station. Hopped the next bus but decided to get off at the Mercado and get some Yogurt.  I got some pressed turkey,  some tomatoes, cranberry juice , sprite , tuna fish, but NO Yogurt...which is why I stopped.   No problem I accomplished something , so I stepped out to the bus stop just at the bus to San Lucia pulled up.  I boarded it and got in the back while a guitar player did a song and took up a collection.  I was trying to get into my pocket and give him some change when the bus turned and started in the other direction.   I didn't read SAN LUCIA right.  It was SAN LUCIA but without the white Cross for the church. The bus was headed for the village not my stop.  I grabbed my bags and tried to get off with the guitarist but the driver took off as I was pushing the button to open the door.  A block later he stopped and I walked back UP the hill to the main street where I finally got my fourth bus home.
      I notice a commotion up ahead.

 There was a huge crowd blocking the street. Damn school "teachers" protesting the law the President put into effect last year when in imprisoned the Head of the Dept of Education for Embezzling all this tax payers money for homes in San Francisco and her own private Jet.  They are upset because they not only have to show up and teach in order to get paid...but they also have to prove they are capable of teaching...can you imagine.  Meanwhile the road is blocked and just as the driver was about to take a detour...the crowd started marching down the center of the street so the bus could pass. 
          I squeezed into the back of the Moto-Taxi with my ass on the edge of the seat while a very large couple filled the rest of the back seat.  The driver opened the door and I fell out, paid him and poured a drink when I arrived at 5:30 and unloading my grociers.  See why I love it here.  I'd be bored stiff if I could control my daily routine like I do when I'm back in Scottsdale.  
        

SUNDAY AT THE ZOCALO

     My plans to stay home today changed around 1:00 p.m. when I was just drawn to the Zocalo to watch the show.   My belt needed repair and my knife needed sharpening.   I arrived at the leather shop in the Benito Juarez Market and presented my belt with a broken bucket to repair.

 I left the young man to do his thing while I browsed the Meat Market and shops nearby.  I stopped back a few times and he was still working on it but it appears my fat stomach broke the buckle connection and it had to be replaced.

 I went around the corner and bought some tangerines then to the hardware store down the street looking for the knife sharpener.  They mill around the town with portable stationary bicycles that are grindstones.  I had hoped to find a shop but ended up buying a sharpener at the hardware store.  When I returned my belt was like new and will stay that way if I lose some weight.  
      Walking through the Zocalo I remembered a recently opened restaurant I read a good review about.   I looked at the menu and thought of giving it a try but didn't feel like going to a new place alone so walked over to Courtney place to see if she wanted to share a pizza.  She was working on an Art Project so we agreed to meet across the street at the coffee shop where I would have a cup and check my email. Twenty minutes later she arrived and we were on our way.  This loud shrill noise that sounded to me like a baby screaming in my ear was deafening.  I told Courtney if that doesn't stop, I'm going to kill that kid.  She said what kid...the one screaming!  Then I realized we had walked into and across the street yet it still sounded like the kid was right next to me.  I kept looking for the screaming brat but there was none....it was a knife sharpener on the street letting people and shops know he was available?  

That was too much!  I freaked out.  He had a whistle that made a noise that made me want to kill and yet ...here was the man I was hoping to find!  I pulled out my knife, we agreed on $1.80 and he set up shop.  A few minutes went by and my knife was so sharp I couldn't carry it.  I paid and thanked him then stopped into a grocery store and asked if they had some cardboard I could use as a sheath.  They did and I stored it away in my bag and we ordered a Pizza at the restaurant.  I had to have some Mussels also.  

They were great as was the Pizza.  We parted and finished the day watching the end of The Raven about Edgar Allen Poe.  Not a great movie but a great day!

FLEA MARKET

      It's early Sunday morning and I'm out the door. I want to see what the Flea Market at the Library has to offer before everyone picks it clean.  I was passing Llano Park and the music and crowds drew me in.  Pilate's exercise at 9 a.m. on Sunday and everyone was there.  If they weren't dancing they were watching this high energy Jack La Lane motivator on stage "Rockin Away"  or Salsa.  It was hypnotizing.  

     The crowds were at the library and as I approached, I could see them exiting with there finds under there arm or in bags.  I saw a movie for 10 pesos with John Cusak as Edgar Allen Poe so bought it and headed for the bakery table.  I spent 20 pesos for a really good brownie. Then ducked into the back room where I found two full sessions of Spanish Course with workbooks, CDs, and phrase books to boot for 10 Pesos...I hauled my stash out in my Walmart Bag and headed for the Zocalo and on to the Market to get some fruit to stock my refrigerator.  Then I remembered the Graphic Arts Museum is free on Sundays so stopped in to see their exhibits.

 The artists were out in force along the street and one caught my eye.

 He engraved or hacksawed out your name on a key you could hang around your neck with your Astrological sign on it ... as jewelery or put it on your key chain in case you lost them , your name would be there.  I though it cute and got one for Chris when I return.  
      It was getting close to Noon so some Fresh Homemade Apple Strudel with a nice Latte was ordered at one of my favorite's Cafe La Cuiela . (Coffee Heaven)  

    When I did get to the Zocalo there was a Philharmonic Orchestra playing to a large crowd.

 I listened a bit then on the way to the Market I passed the Government Building that had the National Museum open to the public for free.  I went in to see a Mural painted by one of Diego Rivera's counterparts during the '30s.  

Toured the Museum while there then finally arrived at the Market.

 I bought some fresh Pineapple, Oranges, Banana, and a Mango to take home.  The bus got me back around 3:30 and I was tired but feeling great.  

VALENTINE'S DAY

  I emailed Dr Z and told him I took myself off the Meds that Dr M prescribed.  I was having cramps, nausea, light headed, low BP, etc.  Maybe it because your not supposed to take them with Wine?  
   Drove my Poker level up to 9 with only one win for a 10 level I lost and returned to 7...lost and I'm starting over.  Oh well.
    Cleaned house, dropped off the trash, bought some eggs and milk then fixed lunch.  Now off to a class on speeding up my computer.  Bob Humphrey's, the guru who is presenting the class asked me to come in early so he could check out my computer that now only shows black.  I know the Video card died but think I'll donate it or trash it.

     Yesterday I was late for my lecture...today I was two weeks early.  Today was the wine tasting.  I used the computer there to straighten out my photos in the clouds and email Courtney to let her know I would be a little early.  I ran out the door and left my hat behind, grabbed a bus, and arrived while she was painting or something.  Instead of going out, she poured some nice wine and we watched the sunset on the roof while sharing a joint.

 We sampled some young Mescal she bought.  Very good and only a dollar a 1/2 pint I think. Cheap and good.  She walked with me to the Bus so we could share the Valentine's Celebration.  Fireworks were in the sky while we were on the roof.  

Everyone was out on the streets.

 Mostly couples, but families with children having a picnic!  Clowns entertaining, artists doing paintings, a band playing...Oaxaca is like this all the time!  Must have been the full moon tonight.

 I got home by 7:30. St Augustine Yartareni had a BIG celebration with bands, free pizza, etc.  Helen had emailed me about another apartment in the same complex she is at for a little more but Tini ,the landlady, might negotiate. 
       I'm going back to shop and visit the library and get my hat tomorrow.
       I did , then met Helen for lunch at Biznaga and returned home.

She questioned why she feels so good when in Oaxaca?  Is it that we don't have a car to mess with yet public transport takes us everywhere? The weather...no heater or A/C and very little variance from hot to cold...leave the windows open 24/7...no humidity?  We are on vacation...no...we are retired and on vacation always.  
      When I'm in Scottsdale, I'm overwhelmed by Doctor's appointments, time spent driving everywhere in traffic, the heat, the cold, the dust, the pollution, etc.  I stretch the truth a bit but most of all it's the whole enchilada.  People aren't as friendly.  They don't smile and interact as much as here. They are too business like or 'stiff" .  When I'm not at Doctor's appointments I go to Coffee Houses, Restaurants for Happy Hour and dinner, the Poker table to socialize and TRY to win some money, and occasionally golf.  Golf is what I enjoy the most.  Outdoors on grassy , hilly, courses with water running through and tree....feels good to share an afternoon with friends. Most of my time is spent in front of a Bar, Poker Table, TV or Computer.  
       When I'm in Oaxaca, I'm overwhelmed everyday by experiences I never expect when I leave the house.  My neighbors greet me with a smile and a hello.

MY PUB

WALL OF ORCHIDS

 My laundry woman, (who incidentally does my laundry, shirts, etc better than any dry cleaner or even me...and all for less than $5) complemented me today.  She remarked that my Spanish was much improved, not good, but better than when she first met me.  She did this in Spanish and I understood and thanked her.  Usi my repairman that comes over when I need something...swept and mopped my floor before he left the other day.  He's given me rides into town on the back of his motorbike. I offer him a $20 tip...he takes $5 for the gas it costs to go back and forth. He offered to share his food and I accepted and offered him a Coke...just water.  Most of the Mexicans I get to meet , relate to, or know...are like that. To watch them interact on the bus back and forth.  Give there seats to a mother and child, or a woman with lots or carry, an elderly person...hell ME.  People board the bus to sell things...candy, peanuts, discount booklets, hand cream, or to entertain with a guitar, flute, accordion, singing, and clown acts.  Everybody does something to make a living.  When the bus stops at a light, the windshield is washed, jugglers and acrobats do there thing for change.  No one stands with a sign saying give me money!  I'm learning a language (slowly). I live in a World Heritage site with 1000's of years of history, ghosts, decedents of those long ago that still populate the city and countryside. There are more than 17 different cultures in the State of Oaxaca alone and they all have there own languages...Mixtec is one of the most spoken...an in L.A....it's the 5 most spoken language!  You visit the temples and feel the presence of the past.  There are hundreds of Temples and digs.  This area was more populous then Mesopotamia 10,000 years ago. I am within a day's journey to over 10 World Heritage Sites as well as the Caribbean and Pacific Coasts.  Oaxaca is overwhelming and I see no end in sight.  You come for a week and spend a month, then return for a month and spend three, then six, then a year or more.  You can't leave...you don't want to. Enough...flea market at the library tomorrow for three hours to raise money to continue support.  They will have to expand.  Every lecture or presentation is sold out (at the most $8 cost) with standing room only.  The hikes once a week to areas outside of Oaxaca are up to 70 people...they charter a bus  and sometimes two.  The Saturday Camibos or exchanges where Gringo practice their Spanish with Mexican that practice their English...are so full they have to set up tables and chairs out front in the driveway. It is a feeling that overwhelms you and it is different for everyone but it's nice.